Elmo's Speed & Supply
861 State Route 50
Burnt Hills NY 12027
Phone: 518-429-4746
E-Mail: creckner17@gmail.com
Your one stop shop for new and used North East Dirt Modified parts. Our motto, Used parts, not used up!.
We can ship via UPS and USPS!
Off Season hours:
Monday 09:00am to 6:00pm
Tuesday 09:00am to 7:00pm
Wednesday 09:00am to 6:00pm
Thursday 09:00am to 6:00pm
Friday 09:00am to 5:00pm
Saturday 9:00am to Noon
Sunday Closed
Basic Scaling Procedure:
1- Set air pressure in tires. Measure stagger both front and rear.
2- Set frame heights
3- Place car on Scales.
4- Adjust front and rear panhard bars to obtain the proper left side percentage.
5- Install ballast weight (maintain left side percentage).
6- Recheck frame heights and adjust as necessary.
7- Check rear end squareness.
8- Double check birdcage timing
9- Set front caster using
10- Check front end for squareness off of front shock towers
11- Recheck frame heights and adjust as necessary.
12- Set left rear weight
13- Check for necessary shock stem heights. The left front should 3” of stem showing
and the right front should have 4 1/2” of stem showing.
14- Check car for binds
15- Set toe out.
Torsion bar pre-load instructions
These instructions are assuming that you already have the rear end installed, squared using setup
blocks and that the torsion bars and torsion arms are slid into place and tightened down.
1- Make sure the rear shocks are unhooked.
2- Take the rear end off the setup stands and let it hang down. At this point, if you have an 1 1/2” left rear drop rail you must put an 1 1/2” block between the bottom of the left rear tube and top of the left rear frame connector. If car doesn’t have a drop left rear rail, the rear end will sit on the lower chassis rails.
3- Make sure the torsion stop adjuster bolt are never seized and installed in the stops. Back the stop adjuster bolts all the way out.
4- Slide the torsion stops into place. You may need to pry the left rear torsion bar out slightly to have enough room to slide the left rear stop into place. Use a pry bar on the left rear torsion arm to slide the torsion bar and arm out enough to slide torsion stop into place. Make sure the stop is rotated as close to the adjustment pad as possible.
5- Adjust the stop bolts until they just touch the adjustment pad and you feel a slight amount of tension starting.
6- Starting with the left rear bar, wind the required 5-6 turns into the stop bolt. Remember the stop on the right hand side of the car controls the left rear bar.
7- Next, do the same to the right rear bar, but put 6-7 turns into it. Now the car should be taken off the jack stands and set on the shop floor.
8- Torsion bars must now be seated. Bounce the back of the car by placing your knee on the rear bumper. Moderately bounce on the car for 3-5 minutes.
9- Re-install shocks. Make sure when you hook the shocks back up that the rear end tubes touch the frame rail on the left rear, and right rear is 1” off the lower frame connector.
10- Scale car as necessary.
Rear radius rod location
Both rear radius rods in middle holes is stock BRP location (see page 25).
This creates a tight (pushy entry) because you will have reverse roll steer of the rear
end. This will make the car slightly pushy on entry and mid turn until the throttle is
applied. If the car is in what we call a driveable push, then the car will still get good
forward drive off the corner.
If you raise only the right rear radius rod:
This will create more roll steer, as the right rear will move back further on corner
entry. The car will be looser on corner entry. This will also cause the car to be looser
when the throttle is applied. The higher the right rear radius rod gets, the looser the
car will be. If the car is laying on the right rear too much, you have the choice to
increase the right rear torsion bar or raise the right rear radius rod. Raising the right
rear radius rod will also loosen corner exit when throttle is applied. If you only install
a larger torsion bar, this will stop the car from rolling to the right rear, but will still
allow better forward drive as long as the car does not get loose before throttle is
applied.
If you raise the left rear radius rod:
This will cause a looser corner entry, and then better forward drive when the throttle
is applied.
If you raise both rear radius rods:
This will create maximum roll steer on corner entry (loose race car) and will also make the
car more eratic on throttle as the car will be lifting when throttle is applied. This will also
allow the rear radius rods to aid in lifting the chassis, and create more drive off.